The duck confit taco (two for $8) gets our vote for the must-order item during Papito's infancy. Shreds of tender meat, buoyed by two organic tortillas, gets a flavor bump from a squirt of tamarind sauce, house-pickled vegetables, and a dash of mint. An onion ring-topped salad of heirloom tomatoes, cactus, and cotija cheese ($8) is enhanced by a few dots of oh-so-French cilantro pistou. Though we wish the tomatoes had been a tad sweeter, the inventiveness and presentation won us over. Light-textured churros ($5), dusted with just the right amount of cinnamon, come with a small pitcher of chocolate sauce.
The restaurant says it won't offer takeout during these first two weeks. And because it's waiting for a liquor license, things are BYOB for now. Otherwise, this French-tweaked Mexican restaurant is already feeling au naturel.
Papito: 317 Connecticut (at 18th St.), 695-0147.