With that disclaimer finally off our chest, we'd say that the appeal of Arlequin Cafe's Cuban sandwich is that it's actually a pork panino with pickles ― or rather, a two-pork croque, listed on the menu between the cafe's regular and portobello croques messieurs. Further departing from traditional notions of Cubanity, the sandwich is made with heavily buttered sandwich bread, left between the irons of a press grill for long enough to make you antsy and the sandwich evenly browned and crisp-shelled. The pork confit at the center, both physically and spiritually, is redolent with rosemary. A melted, barely noticeable slice of Swiss glues the pork up against a few ham slices, and house-cured pickles alternate with dollops of whole-grain mustard to send out intermittent flashes of vinegar. Is it a great Cuban sandwich? There are more cubanos to taste before we can make that judgment. SFoodie will tell you this: We finished every bite.
Arlequin Cafe 384 Hayes (at Gough), 626-1211.