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Monday, June 28, 2010

What We Crave: The Pork Buns at Heaven's Dog

Posted By on Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 9:46 AM

click to enlarge If we could, we'd buy 'em by the sack. - ED U./YELP
  • Ed U./Yelp
  • If we could, we'd buy 'em by the sack.
Charles Phan's Heaven's Dog elevates Americanized, non-region-specific Chinese food from the realm of fold-out delivery menus, red-and-white takeout boxes, and gloppy sauces cloaking fried nuggets of indeterminate meat to slicker, more stylish, reasonably refined territory: cork walls, soft lighting, and fancy cocktails without silly umbrellas. However, our favorite thing to eat at the SOMA restaurant would be just as delectable served, not on a glazed, solid-color plate, but a paper napkin, or even a sheet of newspaper.

Phan's pork bun ($9 for three) is a revelation ― the pale, slider-sized buns as soft as pillows, more delicate than the laciest injera, sliced open to house slippery, succulent braised pork-belly pieces lightly topped with a dark sauce redolent of cinnamon. If only we could afford to buy them by the sack like White Castles.

Heaven's Dog 1148 Mission (at Seventh St.), 863-6008.

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Andrew Simmons

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