Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Taqueria San Francisco: Worth a Trek Down the Taco Trail

Posted By on Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 5:06 PM

click to enlarge A satisfyingly plush tube. - PHILLIE CASABLANCA/FLICKR

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

There was a period ― basically, the '00s ― when I wrote off the burrito as gringo food, snubbing Mission taquerias in favor of Yucatecan restaurants, torta shops, and Oakland's taco truck row. Of late, I've come back around to the notion that the San Francisco burrito is sui generis, worth appreciating in all its majesty and heft.

Which is why I recently paid my respects to the two restaurants that claim to have invented the Mission-style burrito. I laid flowers. I ate chips. And I decided I preferred the al pastor burrito I'd just eaten at Taqueria San Francisco to its ancestors at La Cumbre and El Faro.

  • Burritophile
In form alone, Taqueria San Francisco's burrito is classic: chewy,

tomato-tinted rice; pinto beans simmered until they barely hold their

shape; an even layer of marinated pork, re-crisped on the griddle to make

its surfaces brown and toasty; a wide swath of salsa.

The burrito owes

its superiority to scale. Not only is it compact enough to hold in one fist, there are no dead spots, no rice clogs or sour cream sinkholes. There is just enough rice, and it is seasoned

just potently enough, to compensate for the beans' flavor-sucking

tendencies. Every bite sparkles with some new

crunch ― cilantro-bright onion here, lime-marinated tomato there. I'd been fearing that the future of the species would be dominated by the kind of taquerias that trumpeted their whole-wheat tortillas and (underseasoned) grass-fed beef. It is reassuring that some burritos have evolved just as far as they need to, and no further.

Taqueria San Francisco: 2794 24th St. (at York), 641-1770. 

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

About The Author

Andrew Simmons


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"