Wednesday, June 2, 2010
It was Brillat-Savarin who said that the discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity than the discovery of a new star. Too bad he wasn't around last Friday, for the opening of The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen
in South Park. The launch of a new grilled cheese restaurant seems to have masses of local humanity hoping for the kind of happiness that makes nearly hour-long waits irrelevant. Does The American deliver? Sort of. The Mousetrap (white cheddar, Havarti, and Jack between buttery slices from Pinkie's Bakery
) is iconic enough, though the TurboChef impingement oven
used to cook the sandwiches yields results that are, if anything, too consistent: Look in vain for the darkened edges, the crisped-cheese spillovers that only contact with a hot skillet can yield. And if it were up to us, we'd lower the filling-to-bread ratio ― this is one mousetrap that needs to be set with a bigger hunk of cheese. But the crème fraîche-enriched, crouton-topped smoky tomato soup is delicious, and while The American might not be the new star many of us were hoping for, it does
manage to serve up finger-glossing slices of warm comfort.
The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen 1 South Park (at Second St.), 243-0107.
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