Fri., May 7, 2010
Everyone knows there's burger dualism, two irreducible types you scarf on radically different occasions. The first you order from the Nopa
barstool you were aggressive enough to ingratiate your ass cheek onto: Marin Sun Farms, brioche bun, house-made pickles, the char-grilled taste of $13 luxury. The second you score for lunch, from a place where the guy working the flattop griddle wears a ball cap and short-sleeve cook shirt. If you're lucky, it'll be as good as the burger cooked up at Holy Grill
― the Epiphany, say, a cheeseburger dripping semi-molten cheddar, its patty hefty enough to make a single sandwich suffice, on a sesame bun laminated with so many seeds it approaches halvah unctuousness. It's enough to challenge burger dualism, if not exactly topple it.
Holy Grill 659 Townsend (at Eighth St.), 431-4659