Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, April 22, 2010

You Can Take the Chef Out of San Francisco...

Posted By on Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 5:00 PM

click to enlarge Ahem.
  • Ahem.
On 7x7's Bits and Bites blog today, Charlotte Druckman interviews New York chefs who made their bones in San Francisco before moving cross-coast. Some, like ex-Jack Falstaff chef Jonnatan Leiva, claim the two cities' culinary scenes are more alike than fig-gate suggested:
There's always the talk that San Francisco has the better product and

New York has depth in techniques--but between us cooks, there is a real

sense of respect for one another.

Others, like A16's former chef, Nate Appleman, are all too eager to dismiss their former city:

I thought [New York] was going to be like San Francisco, but I've received

nothing but love since I moved here. There's a lot of confidence--you

just have to worry about what you're doing, [whereas in San Francisco]

there's too much concern about what everyone else is doing.

As much as Appleman disses Cal-Ital cuisine, a glance at the menu of Pulino's, his new restaurant, shows he hasn't changed directions, creatively speaking,

so much as switched cars.

More worrisome is Eater founder

Ben Leventhal's projections that San Francisco's tricky

business climate, not the primacy of California cuisine, will lure more and more San Francisco chefs east.

Follow us on Twitter:@SFoodie

  • Pin It

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"