Thurs., Mar. 25Dessert first is always a good rule of thumb, but if you stop into Chile Pies (& Ice Cream), the Green Chile Kitchen offshoot that opened its doors in the old GCK space yesterday, there's one (and only one) savory item there that will strategically foil the whole plan with a foil-encased packet of pleasure. More specifically, New Mexico-style Frito pie, served in a split bag with (or, for veggies, without) Niman Ranch ground beef and organic pintos and dressed with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, New Mexican red chiles, and sour cream. You're likely to scarf down most of it in record time, push it away wearily in defeat, and then slowly creep the bowl back to you for shame of even thinking of wasting anything. It's filling and will valiantly try to throw you off your original goal, but persist to proceed to the sweet ending with the signature green chile apple pie, covered in crunchy walnut streusel, the thin slices of fruit cleaving to a flaky crust baked through with spots of cheddar cheese. Toss in a couple of extra bucks to get it à la mode, with red chile-honey drizzle. The apples mask the chile buzz, but only for the duration of eating it, so you'll leave pleasantly heated.
Hey, if the only meal of your day turns out to be a two-pie one, so be it. You've earned it, with ice cream on top.
Chile Pies (& Ice Cream) 601 Baker (at Fulton), 614-9411; cash only