Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Credo Chef's Sedanini World Tour Makes a Stop in San Francisco

Posted By on Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 12:33 PM

click to enlarge Tubular pasta known as sedanini are baked under a pizza-dough crust. - C. ALBURGER
  • C. Alburger
  • Tubular pasta known as sedanini are baked under a pizza-dough crust.
You'd have to be half dead not to perk up when Credo's sedanini alla Credo ($18) ― a large bowl draped with baked pizza dough ― comes to the table. To 65-year-old executive chef Mario Maggi, watching diners cut back the bread sheath to reveal steaming tomato-and-cheese laden noodles probably never gets tired. He's kept the dish in his bag of tricks through decades of work at Italian restaurants around the world. Though he tweaks the pizza-pasta marriage according to local peculiarities, folks in Istanbul, Tokyo, Bangkok, New York, Korea, and Florida have all warmed to the starchy beacon, Maggi recounts with a laugh, except for diners in Spain.

click to enlarge For Credo, chef Mario Maggi's original recipe had to be tweaked. - C. ALBURGER
  • C. Alburger
  • For Credo, chef Mario Maggi's original recipe had to be tweaked.
Here in the FiDi, he subs sausage-studded sedanini rigati for the shellfish pasta he was using at Bella Brava in St. Petersburg, Fla., before his cross-country move for Credo's January opening. A supplier in Chicago custom-makes the Southern Italian-style links flavored with hot pepper and just a touch of fennel. Other sedanini ingredients: tomato sauce, pancetta, sage, pepperoncini, Pecorino Romano, and the tubular pasta that gives the dish its name.

Some liken the dish to timpano, centerpiece of the 1996 film Big Night. Though just as dramatic, sedanini is Maggi's own creation, inspired by pasta variations cooked al cartoccio ― in parchment ― across Southern Italy. Though Maggi would've liked to cook his sedanini in a wood-burning oven, the Credo space didn't rate the necessary permit, so Maggi has settled for gas. Even so, sedanini trumps every other dish on Credo's menu.

Credo 360 Pine (at Leidesdorff), 693-0360

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie

  • Pin It

Tags: ,

About The Author

Carolyn Alburger


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"