and the steamed, the artisan and the novelty.
Pork Sung Bread
Sheng Kee Bakery, 1941 Irving (at 21st Ave.), 564-4800
Founded in Taiwan, this California bakery chain is the Entenmenn's From the Other Side of the World: It's stocked with moon cakes and sponge cakes, frilly confections, and cellophane-wrapped convenience foods. It would take a bread junkie at least a month to taste all of Sheng Kee's buns, which are filled with everything from custard to ham and tuna (that's a combo, mind you).
The half dozen varieties of white bread range from the familiar (raisin) to the kinds you wish Wonder would introduce (coconut swirl). Then there's the pork sung bread, or breakfast in a slice. Pork sung, sometimes translated as pork floss, resembles what you'd get if you found a way to process bacon bits through a cotton candy machine. (Side note: Please let the bacon craze die down before someone actually does this.)