Tues., Feb. 16, 2010
There's a standard kitchen-burrito line at the back of Taqueria Vallarta, a broad, comfortable restaurant on 24th Street. But some days a burrito or plate of chiles rellenos is too much lunch. Those are the days when you pause at the street cart just inside the door, grab a taco, and continue on your way. For $1.50, the taco maker fries a couple of tortillas on the center of a domed griddle, then moves any of the standard taco meats from the grill's rim to the center to sizzle before placing them on the tortillas; you add your own onions, cilantro, salsas, and limes from the fixings bar in front of you.
Be sure to ask for the grilled onions, which melt down on the rim of
the griddle in the juices of a dozen kinds of meat. A couple of them
sprawled on top of your al pastor and you'll be walking hunched over to
keep the tacos from dripping all over your clothes as you eat, a spectacle of discomfort and rapture.
Taqueria Vallarta 3303 24th St. (at Balmy), 826-8116