When the S.F. outpost of Tom Colicchio's 'Wichcraft
(868 Mission at Fourth St.) appeared a few years ago, it seemed to generate a pompous air around itself. The Top Chef
host splashed out with a huge space on the ground floor of the then-new Westfield Centre, as if Colicchio didn't quite get our city's downscale aspirations. And while we had
been impressed with our explorations of one of the original New York locations of 'Wichcraft, we never quite felt compelled to rush down to its S.F. sibling to compare.
What a bad move that was, since we could have been spending so many mornings with Colicchio, ravishing the delicious, runny mess of his fried eggs sandwich ($6.95), savoring its little gifts of bacon, Gorgonzola, and frisée on ciabatta. The sandwich is ostensibly for breakfast, but -- quite rightly -- served all day. We've got a lot of lost time to make up for here.