At Between Meals, Michael Bauer pens a sweet farewell to Carlo Middione, whose Vivande Porta Via at 2125 Fillmore (at California) was sort of the Delfina of its day, lately growing all but invisible. Vivande shuttered quietly on New Year's Eve after nearly 30 years, due in part to Middione having lost his sense of taste and smell. Here's Bauer:
Much of what he offered in the early 1980's was was groundbreaking; now it's commonplace. My last review was in 2002; and I, like others, took him for granted. Without him we might not have had restaurants such as Delfina, A16 or Flour +Water. He's trained many chefs and has been an inspiration to many more.Middione pans to teach and consult; read the Bauer tribute here.