To hell with your all-purpose unbleached: Tony Gemignani serves up pies for fetishists. Take the Margherita: that's San Felice flour in the dough, which rises in wood boxes likewise imported from Naples. San Marzano DOP tomatoes, olive oil from Campania -- and Tony's makes only 73 of these babies a day, no matter how hard you beg. Add an antipasto of Italian-style meatballs, and you've got a lunch that'll serve three Napoletana pizza geeks -- comfortably. Tony's Pizza Napoletana, 1570 Stockton (at Union), 835-9888.