Funny story: pan bagnat means, literally, "bathed bread" in Provençal dialect -- something about smooshing together a bunch of salad-y ingredients in a split baguette bathed with oil and vinegar, and then weighting the damn thing while you go play boules. In a beret. SF Weekly restaurant critic likes the version with tuna, anchovies, hard-cooked egg, and peppers at Chez Papa Resto, 414 Jessie (at Fifth St.), 546-4134. No, you won't be able to throw a game of boules. But if you have the balls, feel free to show up in a beret.