What the hell is a "vivande"? It was an Italian takeaway food shop in the Middle Ages, long before restaurants existed. Carlo Middione's Fillmore Street food shop has been around almost since the Dark Ages -- well, since 1981, which is plenty dark for us. Get an O.G. taste of Upper Fillmore in SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody's pick of Boscaiola, a sauté of fennel sausage, potato, peppers, and mushrooms with white wine, at Vivande, 2125 Fillmore (at Sacramento), 346-4430.