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Monday, October 12, 2009

Doggy Bag: Talking Shit About S.F. Chefs

Posted By on Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 5:31 PM

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Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Come here and say that: On Saturday, Grub Street New York reported on an Extreme Tag Team talk with Anthony Bourdain and David Chang from the New York Wine & Food Festival. Grub Street called it Ten Things Anthony Bourdain and David Chang Hate. You know Chang: The chefpreneur of, like, five Manhattan restaurants under the Momofuku franchise: Noodle Bar, Ssam Bar, Milk Bar, Ko. Grub Street's distillation went like this:

Cupcakes: "I hate fuckin' cupcakes," said Chang. San Francisco: "Fuckin' every restaurant in San Francisco is just serving figs on a plate. Do something with your food," said Chang.
Now, we know that San Francisco is artifice shy. The ingredients here are so good, local defenders say, all a chef really has to do is source the best stuff and get the hell out of the way. We're not so sure. Daniel Patterson proves both the necessity of patient sourcing, and how beautiful produce can turn luminous in a chef's hands. By contrast, a meal we had last spring at Noodle Bar was really kind of meh -- Out the Door on a bad day would've been better. And the overly sugary soft serve ice cream and greasy cookies we scarfed at Chang's Milk Bar one night? Thanks for making our stomach feel shitty for an entire evening, Escoffier.

Actually, Chang's dig reminds us of one ex-A16 chef Nate Appleman made about S.F. early last month, in an interview with the New York Times: "In San Francisco the audience is easy. You put tripe in a bowl and tell them it's from a humanely raised cow and they're going to eat it." Local slapdowns came fast. S.F. blogger line cook took a tweet-shot at none other than the napoleon of Momofuku: "In NY you can put a bowl of anything in front of someone, tell them David Chang made it, and they'll eat it." Snap!

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