Now available at Mission Burger at Duc Loi Market
(2200 Mission at 18th St.): smoky, salty chili cheese fries ($4 -- if you want to skip the chili cheese part, the naked fries cost $2). The fries have a pleasing crispness -- a group of diners near us swooned over how much they reminded them of the duck fat fries at Orson
. Each hot batch is served with a fork, which is the best way to eat them, unless you don't mind an occasional spill or oily fingers. The beef chili has tolerable heat and a subtle, almost chocolatey richness, beneath stronger notes of chipotle. It's made with the same Harris Ranch blend used in the burger: brisket, short ribs, and chuck, all seared in beef fat. Currently, the fries (and burgers -- check out Andrew Simmons' take on those
from August) are available from noon to 3 p.m., every day but Thursdays. One piece of advice: Both fries and burgers taste best served hot, so find room on the couch or crates at Duc Loi.