If you order only one thing at Angkor Borei
, the 22-year-old Cambodian restaurant at the foot of Bernal Heights (3471 Mission at 30th St.), let it be ahmohk
($9.50), a salty, almost frothy fish mousse steamed in a banana leaf basket. If you order only two things, let the second be prahok
($8.65), a mound of salty, stewed ground pork with a scattering of raw vegetables -- carrots, cauliflower, etc. -- laid out for the dipping. It's like a ragu trapped in a bagna cauda, and it's amazing. If you get three things at Angkor Borei, open the menu, close your eyes, and point. We're not sure how it stacks up with Cambodian food in Cambodia, but one thing is
for sure: Everything we've had here has been fresh and fantastic. On a recent visit, we tried blanket prawns, advertised as prawns wrapped in bacon and rice paper, then fried. Amazingly, we could not actually see any sign of bacon but, somehow, with every chomp and crunch, sensed its smoke. Now, we're seriously impressed. When it comes to bacon, power of suggestion is a rare feat.