Let's do lunch:
Sure, the new-school places Pal's and Kitchenette pay homage -- overt or not --to this North Beach sandwich prototype. Show some respect to the original, says SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody, with a grilled meatball sandwich with Swiss cheese, onions, and marinara at Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Café, 566 Columbus (at Union), 362-0536.
Yeah, it's a Victorian punch house -- got a problem with that? Load up on $2.50 happy hour beer and cocktail specials (5-7 p.m.), and you won't care what the hell Hobson's Choice calls itself: 1601 Haight (at Clayton), 621-5859.
That isn't just the smell of broiled unagi you're catching: Breathe in the whole izakaya bar vibe -- and at happy hour prices (5:30-7 p.m.), no less -- at Tokyo Go Go, 3174 16th St. (at Albion), 864-2288.