|Soft, with an inescapably smoky shadow.|
Keep in mind it was out on Geneva, in a bar, on a Sunday evening. Means you have to overlook the dude in the I [heart] *naked mudflap girl*
tee-shirt, clutching a pitcher-size stein of PBR -- not his first of the day, clearly -- falling on his ass after walking into a chair. Totally not exaggerating. So even though pockets of last night's crowd skewed Excelsior, James Moisey's cooking at the Broken Record
(1166 Geneva at Edinburgh) skewed solidly Mission, or maybe Noe Valley. Hell, even Berkeley.
Last night: burger Sunday at the BR, two weeks after Moisey took over the kitchen. His beef and bacon burger ($8) offered a glimpse of bar food's possibilities: chuck the chef sourced himself, ground on the premises with a certain percentage of bacon, the way you lard a pot roast with pork fat. It resulted in a soft, lightly packed patty with a silky softness and an inescapably smoky shadow. Perfectly ripe avocado ($2 extra) turned the texture something close to buttery, with a hit of cheddar tang and refreshing acidity via a slice of Purple Cherokee tomato.
Moisey's bacon job just might be the nicest burger you'll ever eat to a synapse-crushing soundtrack of early Clash, played at a volume that'd drown out the noise of a garbage truck dropping a dumpster. Onion rings ($4) -- red-onion rings flocked with fearsome crunch -- were nice, too (photo after the jump). The BR kitchen's open every night, 6-11 p.m. Burgers offered every Sunday.
|Red onion rings flocked with crunch.|