Like children of the corn, San Franciscans have lined up practically since day one at Flour + Water
(2401 Harrison at 20th St.), the Mission's newest locus of blistery thin-crust grandeur, juxtaposing clunky schoolhouse chic with graceful cooking. Call the restaurant's acolytes children of the locally grown silver corn, cut off the cob and scattered over heirloom tomato salads. In this week's restaurant review, SF Weekly
critic Meredith Brody discovers the reasons behind the painful waits (hint: pizza is among the least of them). Instead, Brody says, the house-made pastas are extraordinary. Savor a vicarious mouthdul of every silken bite at www.SFWeekly.com
. Glean a taste after the jump, then prepare to take your place in the queue.
The crust was swell and the tomatoes and the mild cheese were sweet, yet we were much more beguiled by the pasta. Cappelletti are carefully rolled, stuffed pastas that look like little hats. Flour + Water's version, made of exquisitely tender thin-stretched elastic dough, were filled with white corn and mild yet tangy crescenza, covered in a silky butter sauce tinged with bitter honey, and garnished with more corn kernels. One bite was all it took to know this was one of the best pastas I'd ever tasted.