You gotta figure the mud-flap-and-license-plate décor at this Folsom Street man tavern works like Levitra on guys with a thing for grease monkeys. For everyone else, there's the Classic Burger ($7.50), customizable with swag like bacon or a fried egg. The Classic goes down like a truck-stop hand job: Not exactly oozing finesse, but satisfying all the same. The beef has a high fat content--30 percent--so the craggy, hand-formed patties turn charliciously black on the flattop, while the buns (from Panorama Baking) are nicely squishy. At lunch, the go-go stage doubles as an eating counter, and it's thrilling to dine where so many have lusted. But the truly irresistible thing about Truck may be its fries. Cut from skin-on Kennebecs, they're perfect. Even when you're sober.
Truck 1900 Folsom (at 15th St.), 252-0306