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Friday, December 5, 2008

Bar None: Or, This'll Make You Thirsty

Posted By on Fri, Dec 5, 2008 at 6:40 AM

click to enlarge alembic_thumb_400x285.jpg

By Meredith Brody

Olivier Schwaner-Albright's funny and useful article about the many new philosophies that have sprung up around the new cocktail revival, titled Let 100 (OK, 8) Bartending Philosophies Bloom would be a fun read even if it didn't highlight several San Francisco and Bay Area drinkeries.

Under Neo-Classicists ("updates long-forgotten cocktail recipes by bringing in...cutting-edge techniques"), he lists Daniel Hyatt of the Alembic Bar.

He separates what he calls the Farm-to-Glass movement, whose guiding spirit (hey!) is Scott Beattie, author of Artisanal Cocktails: Drinks Inspired by the Seasons from the Bar at Cyrus (Ten Speed Press, 2008), from the Liquid Locavores, with whom, apparently, Beattie identifies, utilizing Charbay Meyer lemon vodka, locally produced, for Cyrus's Meyer Beautiful.

We're represented in the Faux Tropicalists by Trader Vic's in Emeryville, and Martin Cate's Forbidden Island in Alameda.

Off the top of my head, I would add the venerable Absinthe, Bix, and the exciting new bar menu at Zaré at the Fly Trap (featuring both Barbary Coast classic cocktails and newly-invented Mediterranean ones) to his list, under both Pre-Repeal Revivalists and Neo-Classicists - as Schwaner-Albright says, they're "often confused." I think these places do both the classics and newly-invented drinks justice. In fact, I'll drink to that.

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Janine Kahn


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